Ahhh Hanoi. My favourite city in Vietnam. I could write for hours about my non-stop love affair with this city. But you came here for food and so help me, that is exactly what I am going to give you.
Hanoi’s food scene can be overwhelming with things to try, but one that you will no doubt have every local telling you to try is chả cá Hanoi. Ok, it’s just chả cá but the Google overlords tell me I need to throw “Hanoi” on to it so they show my little post in the almighty algorithm.
But make no mistake about it, not all chả cá is created equal. Every travel guide and self-important food blogger tells you the same story: go to Chả Cá Thăng Long. It’s the original, they say. It’s “authentic”. Translation: it’s the oldest, the most famous, and the most tried. But this dish deserves better than its museum caretaker.
Let me introduce you to Chả Cá Anh Vũ. They serve the same meal with precision, speed, and soul. Ready?
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Table of Contents
The Legend of Chả Cá Hanoi
The origin story started around a hundred years ago, near the Lã Vọng bridge. A family served turmeric-spiced fish to French soldiers. It caught on. Locals copied it. Soon, “La Vong-style cha ca” became shorthand for the capital’s pride.
Over time, the name became religion. Generations repeated the ritual. Same burner, same oil, same speech about authenticity. It’s still happening, and rightfully so.
But chả cá isn’t complicated. Fresh fish, turmeric, scallion, dill, rice noodles, peanuts, herbs, and a funky sauce. Its beauty lives in timing. When the dill hits the pan, you have seconds to get it right. After that, it’s regret on a hot plate.
The ritual is like Korean BBQ. You cook this at your table, so you have no one to blame but yourself when you scorch the hell out of everything in the pan.
The Old Quarter Hype Machine
The Old Quarter for the most part is where most tourists head to. I’m not saying there isn’t good food to be found, but the vast majority of it is overpriced and built for the tourist crowds. Personally, I stay out of the Old Quarter as much as I can when in Hanoi. I won’t even stay there. One area I have fallen in love with is Ngọc Hà, but I will tell you all about that in another post
And of all the Vietnamese I have met, not a single one will say they eat in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. For the most part, the Vietnamese that do eat in the Old Quarter are the ones who work there and need to have breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
Chả Cá Thăng Long
Let’s preface this by stating it’s not awful, I just think there is better chả cá Hanoi to be found.
Having said that, there is a ton of hype built up around the place because of a Michelin Bib Gourmand designation and its location in the Old Quarter. But I will tell you outright that I have eaten at Bib Gourmand and Michelin recommended restaurants all over Asia and more often than not, they are extremely overrated. This place falls into that category as well.
As stated, most Vietnamese I know won’t eat in the Old Quarter at all. “But I saw a bunch of Vietnamese eating here when I went”. No you didn’t, Susan, shut up. You saw Asians that were more than likely Chinese tourists. Your racism allowed you to believe that every Asian you saw in Vietnam was Vietnamese, nothing mofsre.
But like I said, it’s now awful and at first taste I thought it was good too. Just be careful though because as of this writing, their Google Maps locations have been hijacked by unscrupulous characters leading people to someplace that is actually awful. If you are insistent on trying Chả Cá Thăng Long, head to their website for actual locations.
Where to Stay in Hanoi
Luxury Accommodations: – Peridot Grand Luxury Boutique Hotel – Peridot Grand Luxury Boutique Hotel combines contemporary style with Old Quarter convenience. The rooftop pool and bar offer a quiet space above the city’s busy streets. Yeah I know it’s in the Old Quarter but most accommodations are.
Mid-Range Accommodations: – La Mejor Indochine Hotel – La Mejor Indochine Hotel brings classic French design to Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Guests can walk to Hoan Kiem Lake and the weekend Night Market in minutes. Rooms include modern amenities, a restaurant, and easy access to cafés and local shops nearby.
Budget Accommodations: – We Cozy Noi Mieu Hotel – We Cozy Noi Mieu Hotel provides simple, apartment-style rooms close to Hoan Kiem Lake. It’s a self-check-in stay suited to independent travelers who want flexibility and comfort. The setting offers quick access to Hanoi’s main attractions and dining spots.
Looking for other great places to stay in Hanoi? Fill in the form below or check out my AirBnb in Ngọc Hà
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Enter Chả Cá Anh Vũ
If Chả Cá Thăng Long is the celebrity chef version of this dish, Chả Cá Anh Vũ is the craftsman who has yet to finish their masterpiece. The place started on Giảng Võ more than two decades ago, long before Hanoi’s food scene became a photo op. They built their name on consistency, not marketing.
The founder still runs the show with the same calm precision he’s had for decades. He doesn’t sell nostalgia. He just cooks like someone who refuses to let a good dish get lazy.
You’ll find Anh Vũ at 120K Giảng Võ, with other branches scattered around the city. Every one of them still maintains the same standard.
In 2023, Michelin finally caught up and put Anh Vũ on its list as a recommendation but ironically, not a Bib Gourmand. I guess they didn’t see enough big haired white people to justify it. The locals didn’t need validation, they already knew the spot was miles ahead of the Old Quarter hype trap.
I was lucky enough to find this place through a local friend of mine named Quan. He explained to me that this was a family night out type of place and where his parents had always taken him when he was younger. I am extremely thankful for that because I would have never found this place had it not been for him.
Chả Cá Hanoi
I’ve given you the basics of what this dish is, but let’s dive a little deeper. At Chả Cá Anh Vũ, it will be freshly caught local catfish every single time. Not all chả cá locations can say this. You have your choice of two varieties: the straight chả cá or the chả cá with fish intestines. You should choose the latter and before you lose your mind about eating fish intestines, hear me out.
The dish starts back in the kitchen with cubed pieces of the catfish marinated in fish sauce, turmeric, galangal, lemon grass, garlic and salt. The fish is then grilled over open coals before being brought to your table for you to finish.
Once it hits your table, the magic starts. A freshly cleaned pan is loaded with a little oil and in go your fish and intestines to fry until golden brown. Once browned, add your green onions for a minute or so. Now comes the tricky part. Turn your heat down or this will go sideways quickly. Add your fresh dill sprigs to the pan. This will only take 15-20 seconds to infuse all the fish with the dill.
Assembling Your Chả Cá
Your server will supply your table with bowls of fresh rice noodle, ground peanuts, fresh herbs and a couple of sauces. Start with the rice noodles in your bowl, add some fish and intestines, top with your fresh herbs and ground peanuts. Drizzle with sauce and boom, best meal you will ever eat in your life.
The sauces are a fish sauce and something called mắm tôm which is a fermented shrimp paste. It’s a bit funky and extremely salty but it just works so well with the fresh fish. You may prefer a little more subtle flavour so go with the fish sauce. Hell, try them both and mix each bowl differently.
The end result is a fresh and savoury aromatic dish that is dominated by the fish, turmeric, shrimp paste and dill while having subtle undertones of galangal and lemongrass. It’s smoky from charcoal grilling and it’s crunchy from the frying. For such a simple dish there are a ton of complex flavours happening with it.
And those fish intestines? Slightly fishy and it’s like chewing on perfectly al dente pasta.
Fish Spring Rolls
If you thought it ended with chả cá Hanoi, you’d be wrong. Chả Cá Anh Vũ also does a fish spring roll (nem cá) you should try. I can’t say I have ever had a fish spring roll before so this was a surprise. My mind told me it would be flaky pieces of fish inside it but instead it is a pureed fish mixed with several other ingredients. Beautifully crunchy and the filling carries the same herbal notes you get in the chả cá.
What Sets Chả Cá Anh Vũ Apart?
On Paper, Anh Vũ and the half dozen or so other places I have tried cook the same recipe. The same turmeric marinade, in most instances the same freshwater fish, the same bundles of dill. But the results couldn’t be more different.
The first thing you will notice is how clean the oil is at Anh Vũ. As much as I hate to say it, there is obvious recycling of oil at places I will not name.
Ingredients are always fresh at Anh Vu. While I haven’t experienced it anywhere, I have read countless stories of food being recycled at some locations.
The service may be the biggest difference between Anh Vũ and every other location. Because it is a delicate process and many foreigners wouldn’t know what to do, there are always ample amounts of servers nearby watching every move to make sure something doesn’t get overcooked. Pan swaps will be frequent and they constantly make sure you have everything you need. That is very rare in most Asian countries as they tend to leave you alone until you ask for help.
The Locals Know
Ask anyone who actually lives in Hanoi where they go for chả cá, and you’ll hear the same answer. Tourists head for the Old Quarter; locals head to Anh Vũ.
I am a firm believer in eating where locals eat. At Anh Vũ, I have never seen anybody there that looks like me and I also know the difference between Korean, Chinese and Thai tourists.
People in Hanoi don’t waste time on tired food. Anh Vũ’s crowd proves it. Business men and women on lunch break, students on dates, retirees who’ve eaten this dish longer than most tourists have been alive. No one discusses authenticity because authenticity is the default.
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When To Go
Lunch at Anh Vũ is chaos perfected. Tables turn fast, the waiters move faster, and the pans never stop sizzling. Arrive early if you hate waiting, or arrive right at noon if you want the full experience. The roar, the shouting, the organized mess that makes Hanoi worth it.
Evening service is no different. But families will linger. Beer bottles replace teapots. The pace slows, the conversation deepens, but the burners stay busy. Either time works, but it won’t be calm to put it mildly.
Chả Cá Anh Vũ: Prices, Hours, and Location
Prices:
The best part of Chả Cá Anh Vũ is the price. You can get the classic or the fish intestine inclusion of chả cá for 150k VND or $5.70 USD. And the portions are enough to easily feed two.
The spring roll we talked about can be had for 20k VND or $0.76 USD.
They also serve fish soups and porridge which can be had for 70k and 80k VND or $2.66 and $3.04 USD respectively.
Locations:
- Đống Đa – 120K1 P. Giảng Võ, Chợ Dừa, Hà Nội 100000, Vietnam
- Cầu Giấy #1 – 130 phố Đ. Nguyễn Khánh Toàn, Quan Hoa, Hà Nội, Vietnam
- Cầu Giấy #2 – 103 P.Trung Hòa, Yên Hoà, Hà Nội, Vietnam
- Thanh Xuân – 35 P. Lê Văn Thiêm, Thanh Xuân Trung, Hà Nội 100000, Vietnam
- Chả Cá Anh Vũ Website
Hours:
All locations are open daily from: 10:00 – 14:30 and 17:00 – 21:30.
Holiday hours will differ so be sure to check their website
Chả Cá Hanoi Final Thoughts
Finding one of Hanoi’s favourite dishes isn’t hard. Finding a good version of it is another thing altogether.
I’m sure you are going to be convinced to try it while you’re here, and you should definitely do that. But when you do and you find you love the dish, I want you to make your way to Anh Vũ and try it again. I guarantee you will have an entirely different perspective of what good chả cá Hanoi is.
So let’s hear it. Have you eaten chả cá at Anh Vũ, or do you still defend the Old Quarter relic? Tell me in the comments. Hanoi will happily argue with you while the burners roar.
FAQ: Chả Cá Hanoi at Anh Vũ
What is chả cá (also called chả cá Lã Vọng)?
It’s Hanoi’s turmeric fish cooked at the table. The fish marinates in turmeric, galangal, lemongrass, garlic, and fish sauce. It’s grilled, then flash fried with scallions and dill. You eat it with rice noodles, herbs, peanuts, and dipping sauces.
Where should I eat chả cá without tourist traps?
Head to Chả Cá Anh Vũ first. It runs like a local spot, not a photo set. Clean oil, fast turnover, and staff who actually help. Prices stay fair, and the fish tastes fresh. If you only try one place, make it this.
Is Chả Cá Anh Vũ good for first-timers?
Which fish is best for chả cá?
Does chả cá include fish intestines, and should I order them?
Is chả cá Hanoi safe and hygienic for tourists?
Yes, because it cooks in front of you. High heat on grill and pan handles safety. Pick places with busy dining rooms and fresh oil. Anh Vũ checks those boxes daily.
Avoid anywhere with stale smell or unsightly pans.
What drink pairs best with Hanoi’s turmeric fish?
Cold lager wins every time. It cuts oil and resets your palate. Bia Hà Nội and Tiger both work well. Tea is fine if you skip alcohol. Skip wine unless you enjoy clashing flavors.
How do I choose the best chả cá in Hanoi?
Watch the oil and the pans first. Clear, hot oil means fresh batches all day. Servers nearby usually signal proper guidance. Avoid laminated menus in ten languages.
Locals at big tables are your best sign. Or head to Anh Vũ and save yourself the headache
When should I go, and what are typical hours at Anh Vũ?
Standard hours run 10:00–14:30 and 17:00–21:30. Lunch is busiest, with fast table turnover. Dinner brings families and longer conversations but it will still be packed. Arrive at opening for a calm seat. Arrive at noon if you want the full chaos.
How much does chả cá cost in Hanoi?
Around 150,000 VND for a set at Anh Vũ. That portion feeds two normal appetites.
Spring rolls run roughly 20,000 VND. Beer keeps the total cheap and cheerful.
If you pay triple, you walked into a trap.
